Mountains, sea and sky have always fascinated every child. The wish to experience them for a better understanding thereafter quite often gets lost amidst the materialistic race. A few lucky once make an attempt and only a further lesser soul pursue the journey towards newer heights. I would rate myself in the bottom half of the last troupe. Hiking was always there on the cards quite often from Western Ghats to the Himalayas, but wanted to take it to the next level, i.e., summiting. Research and advices guided to the Friendship Peak, yes standing tall at 17, 352 ft North-West of the well know tourist destinations of Manali. It suited all prerequisites i.e., Snow capped, 5000M plus, moderate to difficult in terms of toughness and the icing on the cake the time was apt with the summer break.
Manali was the meeting point. Met the team and the team leader on a windy afternoon. The team leader meant business for the word go. The serious looking eyes behind the thick glasses of Vijay had years of experience under his belt. His brief was straightforward and had answers for all the queries that team had. His best answer was the quote from the movie ‘Everest’, “Mountains make their own weather”, for the query from one of us inquiry about the possibility of rain during the trek.
The departure was on time from Manali, we boarded on to three jeeps that took its own time to find its way through the flooding weekend tourist crowd of the hill station. The rain gods have answered all our prayers and the sun was completely out since early morning. But soon the first hurdle presented itself. The BRO check post at Solang would allow only one vehicle to pass through. So the vehicle had to do multiple trips to transfer all of us to Dhundi Camp site. A few of us opted to walk till the time the vehicle did the shuttle. The walk was worth it. The road was dusty and wound upwards through tall deodar trees. A slow walk lost in admiring the beautiful greenery in near ranges which there after leads to higher snow covered ridges was soon spoilt by the arrival of the jeep and its our turn to take the wheels. In no time we turned away from the main road and headed for the campsite. With the sun still shining right above us we reached the camp site welcomed by hot tea. The camp was at the bottom of a valley that starts right below the majestic Hanuman Tibba thereafter linked through numerous gorges of mountain folds on both sides. The tents where pitched between Beas river and a thin distributor of the river that bifurcated above the camp site. Instruction of our behavior in the camp and camping etiquettes were passed on by the team leader followed by introduction of the local guides and the supporting staff were carried out. Post lunch rightly not allowed to move inside the tents, the entire team got along together and the cohesiveness was seen getting stronger. The photographing sessions was on justifying the light and the pictures background. The evening acclimatisation walk was the first taste of the times to come. A short and steep climb on to the slope adjacent to the camp site helped us understand the required breathing pattern. At the end of the climb it was time to understand the surroundings. The local guide took us through a visual guide of the flora around us and what to expect thereafter during the course of next few days. There were volley of questions and all were answered once again but for the query on rains and snowfall.
A comfortable night and a pleasant morning marked the beginning of the trek. Our target for the day was to reach Bakarthach at 10,800 ft msl, the next camp site. The trek was a gradual climb initially along the river for some distance. Thereafter the climb was steeper through the muddy route with undulated boulders. The teams slowly spread owing to varied fitness levels. The team leader ensured short breaks to get the team together but all his efforts were in vein. The entire route was uphill along the river towards heading directly to the base of Hanuman Tibba. The first snow was encountered while crossing a stream which continued to flow still being covered by hard ice through the trek route. Enough cautions were sounded to spread over and cross the snow covered stream with minimal exposure of the snow craving-in. As we were getting into rhythm and feeling the nearness to the snow line the sky transformed overcast.
Racing against time we reached the camp site and there came the first surprise. The tent had to be pitched on solid ice. With no time for imagining on sleeping on the snow the camp was setup. The rain goddess showed us no mercy and unleashed its power. Rains, rains and more rains. There was a sudden fall in temperature and the best way to overcome was soon devised. The entire team with their warm layer on, assembled inside the dining tent for a game ‘Dumb Charades’. The rain continued till late evening but the normal activities continued. The support staff continued with their activities as if it was a normal day. The acclimatisation walk in the evening was the teams first long walk in the snow. The first few steps were interesting; the feet were never stable, sliding to each side. The mate who helped the other also had to face the same slip. A few tricks from the guide and a few practice steps we were there. Walk with the toe; dig the toe and one step at a time. Almost the entire team was now confident on the snow and it had come handy in the days to come.
In the night cold was as expected and feeling of sliding on the snow as we turned in sleep made the night interesting. But what we saw at dawn as we opened the flaps of the tents had no words; it was interesting to see snow where ever the eye traced throughout 360 degrees. The warm breeze brought in by the early morning sun was great relief. There was a thin streak of light the found its way through between the gap in the eastern ridge right next to my tent. The entire team gathered to collect their part of the warmth. That’s when the team leader walked and showed us the only snow covered non rocky conical peak, the Friendship Peak. It looked miles away with a steep gradient. But one thing was sure at this point of time, it going to be snow and snow from here after. After the regular morning routine of tea, yoga, packing and breakfast the trek begun. The entire climb to the ‘lady leg’ was visually traceable from the camp. It was a winding irregular path on the slopes just behind the camp site. As the sun went up and snow started melting, brought in fresh water flowing continuously all along the trek route. It was slush and mud getting collected on to the boots with every step. As we were half the way a team of trekkers that consisted of children were on their way back. The new was not good. Their trek leader said that they had to abandon the climb heavy snowing and it is still not possible for another week to summit. The team leader came to our rescue who maintained his positive composure and said that but since morning it has not snowed and one more similar day would help us to summit. With regained hopes, we continued our climb. As the momentum picked-up, the guide stopped and pointed ice blocks rolling just a few meters ahead of him. That the first time that almost all of us have seen an ice fall. The guide ordered us pass through the ice fall stretch as fast as possible so to minimize the exposure to the rolling ice blocks. By the time we reached the ‘Lady Leg’ camp site the sun was pretty up and camp site was on clean white snow ‘meadows’. It was then rest and settling down. And off course the acclimatisation walk in the evening.
After a comfortable night, as the team now adapted completely to the conditions, we were headed out for the snow craft training. A kilometer from the camp there was fresh snow, soft and smooth ideal for basic snow craft training. The net two hours was a learning the right way to address snow. It was right from employing the so called “third hand of a mountaineer” (rightly), the ice axe to various techniques to be followed in snow. The ease at which the guide and team leader demonstrated their skills gave the rookie team member confidence. The training was not only aimed at our immediate essential of summiting the friendship peak but for any future adventure in the mountains. Post lunch it was time for a new team game and more bonding. Did I forget the evening walk?
Next day morning it was the for ice craft. Different surface different technique. Just after the morning training session was to end, thick black clouds covered the distant ridges in the south bring-in snow fall. The meeting around mid day, the leader decided that we set out summit at an hour before mid night only if the snow stops by evening. He said that since there has been no snow fall the previous two days, there is possibility of better conditions up there.
All figures crossed and prayers ended the snow fall within an hour into afternoon. We were asked to sleep till nine and there prepare for the summit. Struggling to get a nap with the excitement almost the entire team was up before the due time. After light refreshment, the guides and leader helped everyone in kitting up. No chances were taken. Each one was personally inspected by the leader twice. Professionalism and safety at its peak. As planned the first step was taken as 2340 hrs.
A single line with head torches ON, one step at a time. The soft snow and the chilled downward wind made every step tougher. Slow and steady, the climb continued. A short stretch and a break, the climb continued and continued in the dark with no end in sight. As the body got into rhythm and the snow getting harder with altitude combined with the excitement of summiting fresh energy rushed in. That’s when a tough decision has to be taken. Three members gave away and wanted to return. That’s when the team leader gathered the entire team and said this is the last point of no return. If anyone from here on wish to return the entire team will have to head back, since there would be no guide to take them back. Tough call. But the determination prevailed from here on. From then on it was no looking back. At dawn, the dark conical ahead of us throughout the night turned grey and has travelled great distance to come closer as ever. At first light the grey turned golden and the our camp site far deep inside the valley and our home, the tent like few yellow dots grouped on a white spread. But the new from the sky was again not good. Sensing this rightly, the leader spread the team so that the faster one at least they have a better chance of summiting. The team was divided with nature of pace of the member and the climb continued. The closer, the steeper, as we were nearing the summit, the gradient was steeper. Almost all the techniques of snow craft had to be used. The first team reached the Col of the peak at 0730 hrs, making it a straight eight hour climb. That why, its not for the beginners. As the team was getting assembled at the Col, another call had to be taken. It started snowing heavily and the vast stretches of valley on either side, ridges on the far side started fading. The whitish screen was growing thicker and thicker with visibility drastically reducing to only a few yards. The leader had to take the call of returning considering safety. But surprising there was no feeling among the team members of not climbing a few more distance so as to summit. Probably, they have already achieved their goals, spending four nights on snow, mastering the snow craft and trek for 8 hours straight in dark night at freezing temperature. What if physically not been there, but still it’s a SUMMIT.
