An anonymous Italian quote states 'Ogni viaggio lo vivi tre volte: quando lo sogni, quando lo vivi, e quando lo ricordi.' When translated it reads, ‘Every trip is lived thrice: when you dream of it, when you go, and when you remember it’. This holds true for any and all trips in Kashmir, especially for Kashmir Great Lakes.
In July 2021, I lived some of the best days of my life, courtesy - Bikat Adventures. More than a month has passed already. Still, whenever I close my eyes and imagine Kashmir, I can feel myself instantly going back there in spirit.
There are many well written blogs – detailing about the trekking experience with the day to day account for Kashmir great lakes. Hence, I didn’t want to simply add to it further. Mine is rather about establishing a companionship, in between the major pit stops along this trek with its lyrical namesake - my elder brother’s favorite song from the mid-1970s, ‘Kashmir’ by Led Zeppelin.
“Oh, let the sun beat down upon my face / (with) Stars to fill my dreams
I am a traveler of both time and space / To be where I have been
Sit with elders of the gentle race / This world has seldom seen
Talk of days for which they sit and wait /(and) All will be revealed …"
- (a verse from the song ‘Kashmir’ by Led Zeppelin)
DAY – 1: THE BEGINNING
We reached Sonmarg, among the towering vistas of the famed “meadow of gold”. Just like Robert Plant wrote in his song, the afternoon’s sun was beating down on my face, creating a dreamlike, ethereal world. It felt like the heaven’s door has opened in front of us, revealing a seldom seen world of tranquility.
"...Oh, all I see turns to / (as the) Sun burns the
And my fill with / As I scan this
Trying to find, trying to find, where I've been..."
- (a mildly altered verse from the song ‘Kashmir’ by Led Zeppelin)
DAY - 2: THE ‘KAHWA’ EXPERIENCE
We trekked from Sonmarg to Nichnai. The green trail under flourishing Sun had a golden hue. It felt like the nature is calling us extending its green hands. Its soothing voice blew past my ears. I was stopping for brief moments to capture these dreamlike views.
We had a 9 am head start. Initially it was all ascent. We crossed some shepherd huts along the way during the starting 3 Km. The ascent ended after almost 3.5 KM when we reached table top/magi top; It was about 11:45 am. It was a grassland set amidst Maples, Pine and Bhoj (Silver Birch) trees. There were some local shops/huts selling magi, bread, tea etc. A specialty there was ‘Kahwa’, it was my first experience of it. Kahwa is a Kashmiri alternative to tea. Made with ingredients such as kesar (saffron), spices, flavored with cardamom and infused with cloves and cinnamon - Kahwa is prepared and kept traditionally in a brass kettle. Kashmir being at the central point of the erstwhile Spice Route, may have inherited Kahwa from the Yarkand valley in Xinjiang (present-day China, said origin of Kahwa) during the Kushan empire in the first and second century AD. The word Kahwa in Kashmiri means "sweetened tea".
An old gentleman was carrying Kahwa in his said brass kettle. He called it ‘Samovar’. It seemed like a brass made utensil. He informed us, Samovars are nickel-plated inside. They have a fire-container inside holding live coals to keep the Kahwa hot for longer period. re put into the water. The word Samovar has Russian origin ‘самовар’ meaning self-brewer.
We marched ahead from table top along what can be described best as a ‘up-down-repeat’ route for the next 5 KM to reach Nichnai campsite by 4:30 PM. Nichnai grassland is a massive and rugged meadow. Right before entering the campsite we all had to cross a stream of ice cold water after removing our shoes to keep balance.
DAY – 3: A BENGALI AND HIS FISH
Following the cloudy night and an early morning rainfall, our start was a bit delayed. Once the rain stopped, Bikat’s supporting team was lightening quick on their feet to pack up the campsite within what felt like the blink of the eyes. And by about 10:30 AM we were again walking through meadows.
By noon we were at Nichnai pass, following a stretch of 30 minutes long ascent. Descent from the pass was a slippery snow track. It needed slow, mindful footsteps. Though not having a trekking pole, I took refuge in my otherworldly dumbness. I sat on the snow floor and glided myself over the stretch using the hands as breaks and legs as gliders.
We walked some more. It is to be mentioned here we were carrying packed lunch daily and stopping at about 1:30 PM-ish mid-way for a 45-minute-long lunch break. After this we followed some more sinusoidal route to reach Vishansar Lake campsite by 5 PM.
I am from Kolkata, the one constant thing in my regular meal is fish. It is norm in Himalayan treks to have vegetarian meals only. Hence, today was extra special as our dinner included an optional choice of having fried trout fish captured freshly from the nearby lake for a moderate additional charge. It was really worth it.
DAY – 4, 5: ‘RAIN, RAIN, GO AWAY…’
We knew about a rain prediction for these two days beforehand. I was hoping against hope for it to fail. It wasn’t the case.
On the fourth day, we still had something to do. It was almost 2:30 PM, after lunch, we started for Vishansar lake some 1 KM afar. Vishansar and all other lakes on this route are alpine oligotrophic lakes. The term ‘alpine’ comes from the alps mountain in Europe. Following the geography of lakes in the alps region, around the world any lake situated over 10,000 ft. from sea level is called alpine lake. ‘Oligotrophic’ marks the low productivity of the water body, having sparse source of water. The opposite term is ‘Eutrophic’. In native Kashmiri Vishansar means ‘the lake of Vishnu’. It was surrounded by green lush meadows where local shepherds were grazing their flocks of sheep and goat. The beauty of the lake and its surrounding can’t be put into words to say the least.
Fifth day was a total bummer. More incessant rainfall during the day forced us to stay in tents. We passed time playing games. The day was a special one though. It was the day for Eid al-Adha, the ‘Festival of the Sacrifice’. Hence, at night the full moon sky was a photographer’s delight.
"...Oh, father of the four winds, fill my sails / Across the sea of years
With no provision but an open face / Along the straits of fear..."
- (a verse from the song ‘Kashmir’ by Led Zeppelin)
DAY - 6: ‘AI KANGRI! AI KANGRI!’
Today we crossed Gadsar Pass. As I neared Gadsar Pass the climb became steeper than any other we had yet faced on this whole trek. The last few minutes before reaching Gadsar pass was really tough. Wind was blowing fast, the narrow and jig-jagged trail was like walking ‘along the straits of fear’. There is snow some 100 meters on both side of the pass. Some slipped marginally, all gasped. But in the end everyone made it. We had crossed some 6 km today up until that point. It was 12 PM, noon.
Earlier in the morning, it was sunny with no cloud cover whatsoever. However, there was a chill in the air during early morning. We started by 9 AM and trekked upwards initially about 2.5 KM in steep ascent. Mid-way we saw Vishansar lake again, this time from side-top view. By almost 10:30 AM, after a brief descent we reached the banks of Krishansar. Krishan or Krishna in Sanskrit and Kashmiri means the ‘lake of Krishna’. There is a small stream connecting this lake with Vishansar. In turn they both drain out to give rise to Neelum River.
Right after the lake, the trail became simpler, a gentle walk through plain land meadows, for only a quarter of an hour. Then we were back to climb till Gadsar.
We stayed on the pass for about 45 minutes. After coming down from the pass I saw one of the local shepherd carrying a decorated clay pot under his clock like cloths. When asked one of our local guides clarified, the cloth is called Pheran and the pot is Kangri. The pot is filled up with hot embers (burning coal) and placed under Pheran to keep the body warm. Wikipedia boasts a famous Kashmiri proverb, “what Laila was on Majnun’s bosom, so is the Kanger to a Kashmiri”.
We marched ahead to Gadsar lake. The path in between was filled with beautiful flowers and meadows. Gadsar in Kashmiri means the ‘lake of fishes’.
The Gadsar Lake outflows as a stream towards north-west and joins Neelum River. A folklore about the Gadsar lake is, about the presence of a Lake Monster (a freshwater Octopus), who drags creatures from shores by its tentacles. This seems really far-fetched. By 5:30 PM we were at our Gadsar Valley campsite. Otherwise known as Kustoor Kout.
“…Oh, pilot of the storm who leaves no trace / Like thoughts inside a dream
Heed the path that led me to that place / Yellow desert stream…”
- (a verse from the song ‘Kashmir’ by Led Zeppelin)
DAY - 7: THE LAST CHALLENGE
Our last lake basin on this trek near Gangabal was the most beautiful one. It is like the song says, traveler should storm this place to enjoy its beauty. But do not leave any traces behind. Carry the natural bliss with you as memories, enjoy them in future in your dreams and listen to the nature’s music.
To make up for the lost time during rainy days we had to skip a campsite near Satsar Lake today and reach Gangabal directly. Because of the larger distance to cover, we were given two packed lunches. We started really early, 7:30 AM. First we had to ascend from Kustoor Kout to leave Gadsar Valley behind, to reach the grasslands called Rasbal. Here a flowing river disappears underground. Following this, it took us one more hour to reach the first lake of Satsar.
Satsar Lake means “seven lakes” in English. There are seven interconnected small lakes stretching from north to south, surrounded with lush green meadows. These lakes give rise to a stream which disappears and flows underground in Rasbal. The trail adjoining lakes are filled with alpine flowers. We continue our trek through such land for some more time and eventually reached the campsite of Megandoab. On my watch it was 12:02 at noon, it was at the foothills of Zaj pass, our next and last challenge.
The climb up to Zaj pass is through initially through rocky patches. Then, walking on boulders very slowly to maintain balance and safety. The ascent was tough. After an hour the ascent the rocky patches ended. What left was another ~60 minutes to reach to the top of the pass.
Atop Zaj pass the view is just spectacular. Mt. Haramukh can be seen from here right at our face. It is the second highest peak in Kashmir valley, the first one being Sirbal Peak some five KM east of Sonmarg. On Haramukh’s footsteps there lies the twin lakes of Gangabal and Nundkol. Bikat members took a lot of group photos here. It is a memory to be cherished. Then it was time for our final stretch of walk that day.
Climbing down the Zaj pass is less challenging. But, still tricky. This section is filled with loose rocks. Hence, slippery. The last few KMs are through meadows. Once the descent was complete, we pass through Nundkol lake to reach our campsite near Gangabal lake. The clock was saying 6:25pm.
We saw some Gurjari (nomad) shepherd huts on the way to our campsite. One of whom welcomed us by giving a bottle of milk froth to be shared among willing people. I never turn way using experiences while eating or drinking (if it is not inebriating). Hence, took a large sip. It was really different in taste.
"...My Shangri-La beneath the summer moon / I will return again
Sure as the dust that floats high in June / When movin’ through Kashmir..."
- (a verse from the song ‘Kashmir’ by Led Zeppelin)
DAY - 8: 'ALL GOOD THINGS MUST ...'
My interpretation is, by these lines Plant (Writer of the song - 'Kashmir') didn't mean to say that there is dust in Kashmir. He may have meant his desire or, will to return to his ‘shangri-la’ (heaven/paradise/Kashmir) is as strong as the desire of the dust that without fail floats high in June. He wanted to return again to his paradise and so do I. Or, maybe I never left, my spirit remains there. I hope to return physically someday again. Let's see if the destiny agrees.
This was the last day of our trek, mostly downhill. After a very light breakfast, our guides and leads asked everyone to gather around. They made two parallel lines of people facing each other. One with all the participants. The second one with all the guides, leads and other supporting staffs like porters, cook, helping hands etc. They thanked us for giving them this opportunity to serve. We in turn were taken aback by this generosity in their treatment.
We started at 8:55 PM. At the very beginning, we had to cross a very fast flowing wide stream, by walking over a slender stone panel laid over balancing rocks on both side. For most the guides had to provide support to cross.
Then what followed was a brief ascent, followed by an hour long walk through the right hand side of a mountain slope and then some more. At last we entered meadow. Next was an Indian Army Check post. Photography is prohibited near about this region.
It was steep descent thereafter. Mostly through beautiful pine forests and a meadow with pretty yellow flowers, till our next stop at another magi point.
From there onwards it was all descent. We entered Naranag at 3:25 PM. From Naranag we had a Car arranged for Srinagar, pre-booked though Bikat. This car-ride marked the end of our amazing journey.
