As the highest peak in the Zanskar Valley of Ladakh, Mount Nun is 7,135 meters of sheer energy. You can feel its strength from the very moment you lay your eyes on it. It continues to silently exude its authority by the way of its daunting structure, unnerving slopes, unannounced blizzards and the peculiar way that it holds you - sometimes gently but on others, decidedly not. This handsome mountain is part of the Nun Kun massif and shares its space with its shorter twin Mt. Kun (7, 077 M); separated from each other by a 4 km long snow plateau. The massif is located in Suru valley of the Kargil district about 250 kms east of Srinagar.
A bit elusive at first, you can feel the mighty presence of this highest peak in the Zanskar Valley of Ladakh region, as soon as you set off on the road to Tangol. On its first appearance, this massive peak of 7,135M makes its presence known to you, not very subtly. The way it elegantly stands in its milk-white robe against the barren landscape of Suru valley, it certainly knows how to stand out and own the view.
To climb any 7000M peak is a mammoth task. To climb Mount Nun is even more of a Herculean undertaking meant NOT for the faint hearted. The nature of the mountain, it's crevasse- riddled surface, it's very unnerving habit of changing face every hour thereby changing routes, elaborate glacial formations, high gradient ice walls, technical patches, knife-edge ridges, constantly changing weather, high altitude and strong winds make it a much tougher peak to climb than some other 7000M peaks and calls for a person with substantial experience. While it is welcoming, the mountain only welcomes a person with true grit and a heart of a team player.
Difficulty Level of the Trek:
Mount Nun is a level 8 trek on the Bikat Rating Scale.
About the BRS: The Bikat Rating Scale rates the difficulty level of all treks and expeditions in our portfolio after taking into account their geographical and climatic conditions.
According to this scale, if you are a beginner who is unsure of your fitness level and don’t know what to expect on a trek, a trek rated one will be a good place to start.
If you liked your very first trekking experience and are looking to test your limits next, the treks rated 2 or 3 will do the job for you.
A beginner who is sure of their fitness level on the other hand is welcome to skip the first two levels and directly start with one of the treks rated 3.
From 4 onwards, the rules change a little. It is mandatory to have trekking experience of the previous level to participate in the next level.
The Terrain of Mount Nun:
Considered a stepping stone to enter the world of the big 14, the expedition to Mount Nun is for experienced mountaineers only. Prior knowledge of technical equipment and mountaineering techniques such as the use of ice axes, roping up procedures, rappelling, crampons, and jumar climbing is a must. The technical ascent to the summit along with extreme and unpredictable weather conditions and rough terrain demands high levels of physical fitness as well as high capacity for mental endurance. Mount Nun serves as a preparatory expedition for many 8000M+ peaks and helps the transition from trekking peaks to climbing summits. It is perfect for those mountaineers who have prior experience of high-altitude climbing and have successfully completed at least two 6000+M peak expeditions.
1) Time Commitment
Expeditions, as opposed to treks, demand a lot of time. Mount Nun is a 24 day long indulgence excluding the travel time to and from the city of Leh. To get anywhere into the Himalayas is a time consuming process, which is true even in this case. While getting to the city of Leh is one flight away from major cities, getting to the trailhead of the expedition, Tangol, takes a total of 2 days. The expedition also requires you to take time out for a pre-expedition trek which will help your body acclimatize better and increase your chances of a successful climb. The pre-expedition is usually seven days for Mount Nun – this is included in the 24 day itinerary.
2) Landscape of Ladakh
Mount Nun is in the heart of Ladakh and the landscape of Ladakh is not always your best friend. It is mostly inhospitable, and requires a lot of adapting to. Given that there is close to no vegetation in the entire region, and the high altitude, the air there is extremely dry which can make your throat scratchy and your face burnt from the harsh sun from which there is no respite.
3) Self-Reliance, Acclimatization and Load Ferry
While you can get a lot of support from support teams in smaller treks, this is barely the case with high-altitude expeditions. Expeditions require a lot more self-reliance where each climber needs to carry their own weight in the team so as to not become a liability. This means having the required technical knowledge, being physically capable of carrying yourself and all your gear + clothing + ration to and in-between camps which gets harder and harder as the altitude increases. It seems especially daunting on the vertical walls of ice which anyway, without the weight, can bring you to the brim of extreme exhaustion.
Given that high-altitude climbs demand a rigorous acclimatization routine, expeditions usually employ the method of making rotation rounds between camps so as to better adapt to the environment. Living the tenet of ‘climb high, sleep low’ which is a golden rule for survival in that altitude, we make multiple rounds between campsites. For Mount Nun, specifically, we make two rounds. The first is when we ferry our load up to the next camp, leave our stuff there and then climb back down to the lower campsite to spend the night. The next day, we climb back up to the camp where we left our stuff and proceed to pitch out tents to now occupy the campsite. What this achieves is a three-fold benefit. Firstly, you can divide your weight between two days so as not to carry a massive amount in one trip. Secondly, it introduces the body to a higher altitude environment but gives it time to better adapt to it by not pushing it in this new height. This gives the body a better chance to survive that altitude. Thirdly, for each time that you climb the same route, it tends to get easier and easier, refining your technique, skill and adaptation.
4) Gearing up
The farther away you go from sea level, the harder it gets for the body to accomplish basic functions – altitude tends to reduce speed, efficiency and even slows down brain functions compromising essential tasks such as decision making and planning. All the body’s resources are used for the most vital of functions. It serves well to know that the energy reserves on high-altitude are very limited so as to better calculate where they can be expended. The simplest of tasks at such an altitude seem extremely daunting. Mount Nun has 3 campsites at the following altitudes – Basecamp at 4,600M, Camp 1 at 5,500M, Camp 2 at 6,100M and Camp 3 at 6,400M. Since all our climbs begin at high altitude, and because of the number of gears required to undertake each climb between camps, gearing up before the climb is one exhausting process. The simple task of prepping your equipment and putting it on before each climb takes up a lot of this limited energy, can wear you out and make you breathless. The general gearing up would include: a harness, an ascender, a descender, a few carabineers (screw type and plain type), sling, sling tape, self-anchor, helmet, snow boots, layering up according to the temperature.
5) Physical Comfort
Treks usually are short and comfortable. But when that period is extended by 3-4 times, forgoing everyday luxuries such as toilets, toilet tents, warmth and private spaces, starts to seem as difficult as the climb itself. Being on a 24 day expedition means adjusting to a new way of living and given the duration of the expedition, it is a huge adjustment. Living on uneven land, sleeping on the icy cold snow, trying to keep your body functional at subzero temperatures where you are in a constant state of discomfort and, no toilet tents after the basecamp! Expeditions of this sort demand that you shed all your inhibitions and co-exist in the truest sense. No respite from the constant biting cold is literally like living in the freezer for 24 days with high speed winds making it even more challenging. The conundrum of wanting to stay in your tent but also needing to spend time outside for better acclimatization, is very real! There is no sight of water after the Base Camp. We melt the snow for all hydration requirements and for the preparation of food which takes a long time to cook given the weather conditions. Since Ladakh is a secluded region, the availability and variety of food there is limited, which also during the course of the expedition might seem like a major adjustment. On the mountain itself, we carry packaged food, which again is a shift from our daily food consumption habits. Basically, a high-altitude climb is extremely demanding on a lot of fronts but can feel very rewarding at the same time. There is something extremely gratifying about shedding convenience.
6) Mental and emotional acumen
High-altitude climbing is as mentally and emotionally strenuous a sport as it is physical. With a constant sense of discomfort, the focus the mountain demands, the harsh conditions which make it very appealing to abandon your climb, the constant debate in your head of whether to take a step forward or turn back, the will to keep pushing forward and the need to make difficult decisions every step of the way – climbing requires a lot of mental strength and emotional stability. While it is important to have a certain level of fitness, there are factors much beyond a climber’s physical strength that determine the success of the climb. You don’t just bring your fitness, but your entire personality to the base of the mountain.
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7) Technical Climb
Given its route with large sections of vertical walls and crevasse-ridden surface, Mount Nun is a technical climb which requires heavy dependence on mountaineering equipment. Since climbing at this altitude is, although, a team effort but equally an individual journey, having knowledge about the techniques of mountaineering and knowing your way with your equipment is essential to contribute to the success of the team instead of becoming a liability. Self-management, knowing the risks and being able to be self-sufficient in case of an emergency is absolutely vital. At high altitude, the success of your expedition depends, to a great degree, on the quality of your equipment and the trust you are able to place in it. Each small piece of clothing and tool can be the difference between failure and success, mishap and control, life and death! It is extremely important to care for, maintain and pay the equipment their due respect because they are support systems that take you to heights and bring you back down safely.
8) Long Days – Just Another Job!
Climbing a high-altitude peak is literally like a 9-5 job – one which is both mentally as well as physically demanding. We start early in the morning, and walk the icy slopes for close to 7-8 hours each day, set up camp, try to catch up on sleep to start the 7-8 hour climb for the next day – day after day till the end of the expedition. We also gain a considerable amount of altitude each day, making the next day a bit harsher than the one before.
The small village of Tangol which rests at an altitude of 3,700M, is the trailhead for Mount Nun. This is where we start our trek up towards the base of the mountain which lies at a height of 4,600M. This makes for 900M of height gain on the very first day of the actual expedition. The route to the basecamp takes you through small villages rich with lush green fields bordered with pink flowers and locals running up and down the steep slopes like it was an Olympic field. Cattle scattered around the landscape, you soon leave the geometric greens behind at the foothills of the mountain and enter the world of browns on narrow shepherd trails– rocks, boulders and mud – extremely dry but rich in flowers of all colors growing out in tufts from the cracks between the land. After a steep ascend, you descend down into a much chillier valley – a bit more rustic than the one we left behind. On crossing miles of moraine and glaciers, we make it to the bottom of the waterfalls. This last leg of the climb is steep and slippery made of loose rocks and scree. The basecamp rests waiting for us at the top of the waterfall.
Basecamp is where you will see land for the last time. It is all snow from here on! Existing in all-white is a surreal experience which can be both brutal yet satisfying all at the same time. The days on Mount Nun are long, cold and weary and demand a lot of discipline, just like any other office job!
9) Camp 1 to Camp 2
The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the most difficult climb of the entire expedition. The 600M of ascent from Camp 1 which is at the height of 5,500M to Camp 2 which rests precariously at 6,100M takes a total of 9-10 hours of climbing on nothing less than 60 and 70 degree slopes of hard ice. There is nothing like this day to make you realize energy is a finite resource which needs to be used efficiently and replenished frequently. The most difficult part of the climb is navigating large sections of boulders and rocks with crampons on. The last 100 meters to the very fascinating campsite which lies on a slope on a very narrow surface on one high pinnacle, takes the last morsel of energy to get to. To pull yourself up on the last vertical snow ascent after the difficult maneuver on the rocky patch you just left behind, is the perfect pause to end the climb for the day.
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10) Weather Windows
Along with being a harsh and inhospitable terrain, the rising altitude makes the weather extremely unstable and volatile. Keeping up with the unpredictable weather, constantly having to change plans in order to adapt to the current situation takes knowledge, patience and continuous recalibration which can be both physically as well as mentally exhausting. There is also a constant need to keep adjusting your pace to reach the campsite for the day since there is heavy dependence on clear weather windows for each day, which tend to be very limited. Besides this, even on clear days, the weather as you keep going higher up, becomes harsher, drier and sends you regular surprises in the form of high-speed winds.
11) Reaching the top is only half the job done
We tend to focus so much on the ascent and getting to the top that we forget that these are the very steep slopes which we also have to descend at some point. Drained energy and the general nature of descend being a little more precarious than ascends tend to make these bits a bit trickier. No biggie though, the awareness of it and conserving enough energy to get down would make a universe of a difference in keeping you safe.
12) Patience, tolerance and humility
Mount Nun is known for its technical climb, patches of difficult rock and ice negotiations and an overall challenging terrain in addition to unpredictable weather conditions. While these are known devils during the climb, the skills that can actually determine the success of an expedition are a part of each climber’s personality. While technical skills can be learnt and mastered, forbearance, tolerance and self-restraint are some of the true markers of a good climbing team in high-altitude expeditions. It is not the temperance of climbers in the periods of ‘doing’ but those of ‘non-doing’ that separate a good climber from a bad one. We love expeditions because they make transparent the strength of every climber's character - the difficulty of the task introduces you to a different version of yourself and how you handle that is the true test you put yourself through. Getting to the summit is only a part of the challenge - to measure your own self in the face of something extreme is the actual challenge the mountain throws at you!
GEAR REQUIRED FOR MOUNT NUN
While we will be providing most of the technical equipment needed for the trek (tents, sleeping bags, crampons, snow boots, ice axe, ropes, slings, carabineers, ascender, gaiters, descender etc.), there is some basic gear you will need from your end to get through your expedition comfortably.
Some of the things you will need are:
1. A sturdy, lightweight backpack: Given that there are no avenues to offload your pack or to shed some weight, a good backpack which sits comfortably on your back without putting too much pressure on it can be the deciding factor between making it to the summit or not. Check out the article below, in case you feel stuck on what constitutes ‘good’ when we talk about backpacks.
2. Comfortable trekking shoes: While we will be providing you with snow boots that will be our constant companions after Base Camp, you will need a good pair of trekking shoes for the days before we get to the base of the mountain. Happy feet equal a happy trek. Conventional sports shoes don’t suit trekking trails. We recommend wearing high ankle shoes with sturdy soles. These not only provide better support but also reduce the possibility of injuries while hiking. In case, you need help with a list of deciding factors that make for good trekking shoes, please refer to the article below.
How to choose a good pair of hiking shoes
3. Right Clothing: Any high-altitude trek requires specific kinds of clothing. It should be warm but light weight. It should also be such that it is easily packaged. On high-altitude expeditions, we usually employ the layering method where you put on multiple layers of clothing instead of one very heavy, thick jacket. This is for two reasons:
a) The weather in Himalayan regions is unpredictable and changes very quickly. Layering gives you the freedom to adapt to that accordingly where you are not left feeling too hot or too cold.
b) These are easy to carry and are packing-friendly.
If you need help on what to pack, please find the packing list for the expedition, below.
4. Right Sunglasses: When you know you are going to be in and around snow or in any high-altitude location where the sun is harsh, you might want to carry a good pair of sunglasses. It is especially vital on terrains such as Mount Nun since you will primarily be existing on ice for the length of the expedition. A lack of this can prove to be fatal. No sunglasses can prove to be the difference between clear vision and snow blindness. The article below can help you pick out just the right pair.
How to pick high-altitude UV protection glasses?
ELIGIBILITY FOR MOUNT NUN EXPEDITION
As a basic requirement, to be part of the expedition to Mount Nun, aspirants should have at least finished either or both of their mountaineering certification courses (Basic Mountaineering Course & Advanced Mountaineering Course) from one of the 5 recognized institutes in India. Alternatively, in absence of certification, the aspirants should have attempted/ climbed at least two 6000+M peaks. These are essential given the need for technical know-how vital to undertake an expedition of this kind. We will be providing climbers wall the basic training with the use of equipment and technical practice during the expedition. However, having prior knowledge and some practical experience is absolutely essential in the said terrain.
