Lying to the southeast of Manali above Jagatsukh village, locals consider Deo Tibba (6,001M) to be the point of assembly for all gods (devtas) who are believed to come together and sit atop this peak to discuss matters of utmost importance! Legends aside, personally, we love it because it's quirky. It's on our list of favorites because of its very eccentric personality.
The restlessness of the mountain with its constantly changing terrain and temperature, long, vertical gullies and its many knife-ridges make Deo Tibba a mix of thrilling and challenging. While it's brutal only at times with its tough gradients and chilly high-altitude winds, you can count on it being unpredictable and exciting all the time!
What's fascinating about Deo Tibba is that it has got easy days of pleasant walks through forests and meadows and it has got extremely scary sections with 65° gullies prone to rockfalls. It has got trekking sections and it has got sections where you need to know exactly how to use your tools and your skills – if nothing else the mountain keeps you constantly on your toes and will have you thinking on your feet. It has got sections you will breeze through and it has got sections that will make you cry very real tears. This magnificent peak can leave you full of self-doubt for toying with you the way it does. It’s an extremely confusing internal and external journey but it's worth every bit of the conundrum for its spectacular views and the amount of learning it offers.
Given the technical nature of its climb, its crevasse-ridden terrain and the altitude, this expedition is for people with a fair bit of trekking experience in the Himalayas and a fair bit of technical knowledge pertaining to mountaineering equipment. This article discusses the difficulty level of Mt. Deo Tibba, the gear and skills you require to make a successful ascent up its irregular slopes and some of the challenges you are likely to encounter when you embark on this journey from where there is no looking back.
Difficulty Level of the Expedition:
Mt. Deo Tibba is a level 7 trek on the Bikat Rating Scale.
About the BRS: The Bikat Rating Scale rates the difficulty level of all treks and expeditions in our portfolio after taking into account their geographical and climatic conditions.
According to this scale, if you are a beginner who is unsure of your fitness level and don’t know what to expect on a trek, a trek rated one will be a good place to start.
If you liked your very first trekking experience and are looking to test your limits next, the treks rated 2 or 3 will do the job for you.
A beginner who is sure of their fitness level on the other hand is welcome to skip the first two levels and directly start with one of the treks rated 3.
From 4 onwards, the rules change a little. It is mandatory to have trekking experience of the previous level to participate in the next level.
The Trails of Mt. Deo Tibba:
Even though there are peaks much taller in stature as compared to Deo Tibba which just hits the mark of 6000M, in our experience, it is a much more challenging peak than many of its elders (in height alone). The technical challenges it presents along with the physical and mental demands it makes from its climbers is a test of true grit. The peak has the ability to test your limits and skill you with a level of technical prowess required to take on some of the best and the most difficult climbs in the Himalayas.
Given that it is a technical peak, Mt. Deo Tibba presents you with an assortment of terrain, gradient and environment which is easier to navigate if you have some of the basic technical skills required in the mountains. If your knowledge of mountaineering equipment and techniques needs brushing up, however, there is absolutely no need to worry! As a learning-based organization, we will be providing you with the equipment and training needed to use them during the initial days of the trek. Nonetheless, it helps to know the challenges you are likely to encounter if you decide to undertake this journey. Let us help acquaint you to some exciting difficulties which make the expedition challenging as well as fun!
Challenge 1: Unpredictable Weather
Given that we have spoken so much about Mt. Deo Tibba being a moody mountain, it is only right to elaborate on its restless demeanor and unpredictable personality as the first challenge. When we say that it isn’t a fair-weathered mountain, it is not like there are no sunny days on this entire expedition. What we do, however, mean is that if you encounter sunny weather one second on this mountain, don’t count on it to remain that way into the next second because it takes less than a minute for the weather on Deo Tibba to take a turn for the worst. Interestingly enough it’s not the same the other way around – it will be hours before it clears up.
(Read: 300 M to the summit – an account of one of our expeditions to this mountain attests to this point exactly.)
On one of our expeditions to the mountain, in the post-monsoon season of 2022, after 5 days of clear weather, our team was struck by a snow storm when on the summit camp. The team had to abandon their summit push 220M shy of the summit because the mountain just wouldn’t let them take another step forward. The team descended as quickly as possible but the storm was not in a mood to let up. As the storm raged on even below base camp, the team had to cut through knee-deep snow to reach Manali. What was to be a 4-5 hour descent from the base camp to Manali turned out to be a 14 hour ordeal.
Challenge 2: Duhangan Col and the Unnamed Ice Gully
The reputation of Duhangan Col truly precedes it. If you trek a lot, it's possible that the slopes leading to Duhangan Col have made for a campfire story at some point. The col doubles up as Camp 1 on the expedition to Deo Tibba (6,001M) which is stationed in the Pir Panjal range in Himachal Pradesh. If you've heard the stories about the col, it IS truly as intimidating as they make it sound. Depending on the season, the many moods of the mountain and the weather in the region at the time, you will either find this gully with a 60-65 degree gradient, covered completely in snow or absolutely barren and rocky with not a flake of snow in sight – either way, extremely challenging.
What's more is that once you cross it, you are greeted by an equally daunting ice gully the very next day of the climb! Doing it once is bearable but facing an equally demanding section of the climb two times in two days is what drains people out. Each of these gullies is a technical climb and physically trying at the same time.
It's not only the gradient of the slopes of these gullies, but their funnel-like structure which puts you in a constant danger of rockfall the entire time you are in the gullies. The other thing that makes them a sheer challenge is that there is no place to rest on the entire stretch, each of which might take anywhere close to 3-4 hours to cross if not more.
(If these challenges seem too unnerving, we suggest you take a break and read about the highlights of the expedition before you move on!)
Challenge 3: Short Distances, Long Days!
It is on the trails of Mt. Deo Tibba that you realise that distance is only an illusion. You know when you ask your expedition leader 'how much farther for the day', on this peak is where you learn the answer to that doesn't mean much because even the shortest distances in kilometers take what seems like an eternity to cover on the insane terrain of this peak. There’s only the first two days when the distance is proportional to the time taken to cover it but on the rest of the days every kilometer takes excruciatingly long because the weather and the gradient make getting anywhere on this mountain a tedious affair. But they also leave you with the widest smile for getting there in the end - so well, it's all worth it!
(Read the Itinerary for more details on the route and terrain for each day on the expedition)
Challenge 4: Self-Reliance, Acclimatization and Load Ferry
While you can get a lot of support from support teams in smaller treks, this is barely the case with high-altitude expeditions. Expeditions require a lot more self-reliance where each climber needs to carry their own weight in the team so as to not become a liability. This means having the required technical knowledge, being physically capable of carrying yourself and all your gear + clothing + ration to and in-between camps which gets harder and harder as the altitude increases. As difficult as it is all on its own, it gets even more interesting when this tedious exercise has to be carried out over long stretches of vertical ice gullies and narrow knife ridges with winds that can knock you over. Welcome to Mt. Deo Tibba!
Challenge 5: Gearing Up
The farther away you go from sea level, the harder it gets for the body to accomplish basic functions – altitude tends to reduce speed, efficiency and even slows down brain functions compromising essential tasks such as decision making and planning. All the body’s resources are used for the most vital of functions. It serves well to know that the energy reserves on high-altitude are very limited so as to better calculate where they can be expended. The simplest of tasks at such an altitude seem extremely daunting.
Mt. Deo Tibba has 3 campsites at the following altitudes – Basecamp at 4,480M, Camp 1 at 5,100M, and Camp 2 (Summit Camp) at 5,600M. Since all our climbs begin at high altitude, and because of the number of gears required to undertake each climb between camps, gearing up before the climb is one exhausting process. The simple task of prepping your equipment and putting it on before each climb takes up a lot of this limited energy, can wear you out and make you breathless. The general gearing up would include: a harness, an ascender, a descender, a few carabineers (screw type and plain type), sling, sling tape, self-anchor, helmet, snow boots, crampons, and layering up according to the temperature.
Depending on the conditions on the mountain at the time, you will either have to ferry the load to the next camp which means making two rounds through the same route or not. If the terrain is all snow at the time, you will need to put on all of your gear in order to get through to the next camp but in case it is rocky, most of the gear will need to be packed in your sack and carried to the next camp. See what we mean by unpredictable conditions and having to think on your feet?
Challenge 6: A Tricky Terrain, a Technical Climb & the Many Dependencies
Given its vertical slopes, unpredictable terrain and changing weather which demands changing strategies at every turn, Mt. Deo Tibba is a technical climb with a heavy dependence on mountaineering equipment. The landscape is especially tricky since the area is prone to rockfalls and avalanches which you hear all throughout the day.
Since climbing at this altitude is, although, a team effort but equally an individual journey, having knowledge about the techniques of mountaineering and knowing your way with your equipment are essential to contribute to the success of the team instead of becoming a liability. Self-management, knowing the risks and being able to be self-sufficient in case of an emergency is absolutely vital.
At high altitude, the success of your expedition depends, to a great degree, on the quality of your equipment and the trust you are able to place in it. Each small piece of clothing and tool can be the difference between failure and success, mishap and control, life and death! It is extremely important to care for, maintain and pay the equipment their due respect because they are support systems that take you to heights and bring you back down safely.
Checkout - Mt Deo Tibba Photo Story
Challenge 7: Physical Comfort
Treks usually are short and comfortable. But when that period is doubled, forgoing everyday luxuries such as toilets, toilet tents, warmth and private spaces, starts to seem as difficult as the climb itself. Being on a 15-day expedition means adjusting to a new way of living and given the duration of the expedition, it is a huge adjustment. Living on uneven land, sleeping on the icy cold snow, trying to keep your body functional at subzero temperatures where you are in a constant state of discomfort and, no toilet tents after the basecamp!
Expeditions of this sort demand that you shed all your inhibitions and co-exist in the truest sense. No respite from the constant biting cold is literally like living in the freezer for 15 days with high-speed winds making it even more challenging. The conundrum of wanting to stay in your tent but also needing to spend time outside for better acclimatization, is very real! In snowy terrain, we melt the snow for all hydration requirements and for the preparation of food which takes a long time to cook given the weather conditions. On the mountain, we carry packaged food, which again is a shift from our daily food consumption habits. Basically, a high-altitude climb is extremely demanding on a lot of fronts but can feel very rewarding at the same time. There is something extremely gratifying about shedding convenience.
Challenge 8: Mental and Emotional Acumen
High-altitude climbing is as mentally and emotionally strenuous a sport as it is physical. With a constant sense of discomfort, the focus the mountain demands, the harsh conditions which make it very appealing to abandon your climb, the constant debate in your head of whether to take a step forward or turn back, the will to keep pushing forward and the need to make difficult decisions every step of the way – climbing requires a lot of mental strength and emotional stability. While it is important to have a certain level of fitness, there are factors much beyond a climber’s physical strength that determine the success of the climb. You don’t just bring your fitness, but your entire personality to the base of the mountain.
Challenge 9: Weather Windows
Along with being a harsh and inhospitable terrain, the rising altitude makes the weather extremely unstable and volatile. Keeping up with the unpredictable weather, constantly having to change plans in order to adapt to the current situation takes knowledge, patience and continuous recalibration which can be both physically as well as mentally exhausting. There is also a constant need to keep adjusting your pace to reach the campsite for the day since there is heavy dependence on clear weather windows for each day, which tend to be very limited. Besides this, even on clear days, the weather as you keep going higher up, becomes harsher, drier and sends you regular surprises in the form of high-speed winds, whiteouts and snowstorms.
Challenge 10: Reaching the Top is Only Half the Job Done
We tend to focus so much on the ascent and getting to the top that we forget that these are the very steep slopes which we also have to descend at some point. Drained energy and the general nature of descend being a little more precarious than ascends tend to make these bits a bit trickier. The steep slopes of Mt. Deo Tibba being capricious as they are, make descent even trickier – they demand extreme focus and unwavering attention in addition to a lot more physical stamina. No biggie though, the awareness of it and conserving enough energy to get down would make a universe of a difference in keeping you safe.
Challenge 11: Patience, Tolerance and Humility
Mt. Deo Tibba is known for its technical climb, patches of difficult rock and ice negotiations and an overall challenging terrain in addition to unpredictable weather conditions. While these are known devils during the climb, the skills that can actually determine the success of an expedition are a part of each climber’s personality. While technical skills can be learnt and mastered, forbearance, tolerance and self-restraint are some of the true markers of a good climbing team in high-altitude expeditions. It is not the temperance of climbers in the periods of ‘doing’ but those of ‘non-doing’ that separate a good climber from a bad one. We love expeditions because they make transparent the strength of every climber's character - the difficulty of the task introduces you to a different version of yourself and how you handle that is the true test you put yourself through. Getting to the summit is only a part of the challenge - to measure your own self in the face of something extreme is the actual challenge the mountain throws at you!
GEAR REQUIRED FOR MT. DEO TIBBA
While we will be providing most of the technical equipment needed for the expedition (tents, sleeping bags, crampons, snow boots, ice axe, ropes, slings, carabineers, ascender, gaiters, descender etc.), there is some basic gear you will need from your end to get through your expedition comfortably.
Some of the things you will need are:
1) A sturdy, lightweight backpack: Given that there are no avenues to offload your pack or to shed some weight, a good backpack which sits comfortably on your back without putting too much pressure on it can be the deciding factor between making it to the summit or not. Check out the article below, in case you feel stuck on what constitutes ‘good’ when we talk about backpacks.
2) Comfortable trekking shoes: While we will be providing you with snow boots that will be our constant companions after Base Camp, you will need a good pair of trekking shoes for the days before we get to the base of the mountain. Happy feet equal a happy trek. Conventional sports shoes don’t suit trekking trails. We recommend wearing high ankle shoes with sturdy soles. These not only provide better support but also reduce the possibility of injuries while hiking. In case, you need help with a list of deciding factors that make for good trekking shoes, please refer to the article below.
How to choose a good pair of hiking shoes
3) Right Clothing: Any high-altitude expedition requires specific kinds of clothing. It should be warm but light weight. It should also be such that it is easily packaged. On high-altitude expeditions, we usually employ the layering method where you put on multiple layers of clothing instead of one very heavy, thick jacket. This is for two reasons:
1) The weather in Himalayan regions is unpredictable and changes very quickly. Layering gives you the freedom to adapt to that accordingly where you are not left feeling too hot or too cold.
2) These are easy to carry and are packing-friendly.
If you need help on what to pack, please find the packing list for the expedition, below.
4) Right Sunglasses: When you know you are going to be in and around snow or in any high-altitude location where the sun is harsh, you might want to carry a good pair of sunglasses. It is especially vital on terrains such as Deo Tibba since you will encounter a lot of ice on the upper reaches of the mountain. A lack of this can prove to be fatal. No sunglasses can prove to be the difference between clear vision and snow blindness. The article below can help you pick out just the right pair.
How to pick high-altitude UV protection glasses?
SKILLS REQUIRED FOR MT. DEO TIBBA
Bikat Adventures is primarily an adventure learning organization. This means our key objective is not just to help trekkers complete their treks but also to ensure they pick up some valuable lessons and skills in trekking along the way.
To achieve this, we have created learning modules and paired them to different levels on the Bikat Rating Scale.
These modules are taught real-time on the trails by our trek leaders.
The following are some skills that are likely to come in handy on an expedition to Mt. Deo Tibba.
While you will have all the assistance you need on the trek from our capable trek leaders and guides, we suggest browsing through the articles below to get an idea of what is involved.
1) Ascending Descending on Trails
Deo Tibba is full of steep ascents and equally steep descents. While ascending and descending on a rocky terrain is difficult, achieving this on icy slopes is trickier. A set of simple techniques can help you navigate rocky as well as icy landscapes with considerable ease while also reducing chances of injuries and stress to specific body parts. The guide linked below shares some useful tips on how to ascend and descend on trails.
Ascending and Descending on Trails
Here is an additional article for some more in-depth information specific to an icy terrain.
Ice-craft Basics: Glacier Travel
2) Packing Your Rucksack
Given how unpredictable the weather gets on this mountain, you are likely to keep changing your layering frequently along the way. Also, due to the vast difference in day temperature and that at night, you most probably will spend a lot of time packing and re-packing your sack.
Accessing your stuff can get a bit messy and confusing during this process.
A sack packed right can facilitate your trekking while incorrect packing can make even an easy trail seem difficult. Worry not, we are here to help. The article linked below shares some useful guidelines you can follow to pack efficiently.
3) How to Pitch a Tent
Our trek leaders will be guiding you on how to pitch a tent during the trek. Nevertheless, we are linking the article below for anyone who might be interested in reading about it.
4) Layering Basics
Layering appropriately to protect you from the cold is essential. The article linked below will give you a fair idea of the winter layers you will need and guide you on how to layer up at campsites and while hiking.
5) Understanding Equipment
Like we said before, Deo Tibba is rife with sharp ascents and equally sharp descents in an assortment of landscapes. This, along with its peculiar terrain and environment require you to use some mountaineering equipment. The articles below will acquaint you to a few of these and help you understand how to use them as well as how they can facilitate your climb.
How to use Microspikes?
6) Waste Management
When on any trek or expedition, it is each person’s responsibility to know the requirements of the area, some campsite basics and how to manage our own selves as well as the environment around us. While our expedition leaders will keep you abreast about the basic dos and don’ts, do read the article below to brush up on some basic principles before the expedition.
Waste Management and Leave No Trace Principles
We hope this article answers all the questions you may have about the Mt. Deo Tibba expedition. In case you need further assistance/information with something, please feel free to reach out to us. We are only a phone call away.
