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Uttarey to Yuksom
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Trailing right alongside the border, this off-beat trek in West Sikkim blurs the boundaries between Nepal and India. Danphe in Nepali is a word for the Himalayan Monal. Danphebir La literally translates to the Mountain of the Himalayan Monals - no points for guessing which colourful pheasant is likely to be fluttering around all throughout the trail! In the already less explored state of Sikkim, the trail to Danphebir La, the high mountain pass called the Pass of the Pheasant sitting at an elevation of 4,530M, remains fully untouched. There is something special about walking on a trail with Everest towering on one side and Kanchenjunga on the other. In fact, there is no shortage of the number of important peaks the trail introduces you to – from Lhotse, Makalu to Kabru, Rathong and Pandim, the route of Danphebir La treats you to views of these mountains from various angles. The trek presents panoramic sights of the entire Sikkim valley with views stretching to as far as Nepal and Bhutan. Trekking through thick forests, wide grasslands, patches of steep slopes, it offers a chance to camp next to THREE different glacial lakes. Situated in the west of Sikkim, once you hit the altitude of 4,000M, the trail, in fact, is peppered with more glacial lakes than you can count on your fingers. What’s even better is that as one of the least explored trails in Sikkim, the magnificence of the landscape is reserved just for you.
On the last day, the trail brings you to Yuksom which is the starting point of the infamous Goechala Trek. For all the highlights that the trail of this trek boasts of, it also demands a certain level of experience and fitness. Since each day on the trek is long and strenuous, it is reserved for trekkers with prior experience of high-altitude treks. The best months to come here are the pre-monsoon months from April to mid-June and the post-monsoon months from mid-September to November. Stay on this page for more information on the Danphebir La Trek.
NJP to Uttarey (2,000M)
Distance: 170 kms
Duration: 8 hrs Drive
The first day is reserved to make your way to Uttarey, the trailhead of the trek. Uttarey is a small village in West Sikkim along the border of Nepal known for its picturesque setting. To get to this charming town, you have to get a shared cab or a private cab from Siliguri National Transport bus terminus for your 150 km drive into Uttarey. The 7 hour drive is a typical drive to a hill station with long winding roads surrounded by a refreshing shade of green along the Teesta and the Rangeet rivers.
If you choose to travel with us, make your way to New Jalpaiguri railway station. We can arrange for a hired vehicle for the drive between here and Uttarey. If you wish to get there on your own, this article may be useful.
Once at Uttarey, we settle into our homestays. We have all evening to explore this beautiful town.
Uttarey (2,000M) to Chewabhanjam (3,100M)
Duration: 5 hrs
We start our trek from Uttarey through dense forests of the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary with a host of colourful rhododendrons to keep us company. This is an absolute delight especially in spring when the rhododendrons are in full bloom. The trail does get a little steep in the forest but the singing birds of this thick forest are the best cheerleaders one could ask for. We cross the Sapa Khola stream multiple times over wooden bridges till we get to Chittrey. From here the ascent is sharp all the way till we reach Chewabhanjam - our campsite for the day located near SSB camp close to the Indo-Nepal border. You will see some wooden cabins set up by the SSB. This is where we set up our camp.
Chewabhanjam (3,100M) to Dhoor (3,800M)
Duration: 8 hrs
Today is going to be a long day of steep ascent and a major gain of altitude but the good part is that we have covered a major portion of the steep ascent yesterday between Chittrey and Chewabhanjam. We start out by entering the rhododendron forest again. The other side of the forest is a long ridge walk which goes up and down. This means a series of ascents and descents. We witness the high mountains in the vicinity for the first time on getting out of the thick canopy. The walk also has you go in and out between India and Nepal. The last 4 kms are an easy walk, enough to cool down after a long day of steep slopes.
Dhoor (3,800M) to Meghuthang (3,900M)
Duration: 8 hours
Today is much like yesterday but a little longer. We continue on our ridge from the previous day where you are likely to start getting greeted by patches of hard ice and snow. The winds on the ridge get stronger and colder but the views remain as refreshing as ever till we reach the campsite of Meghuthang.
Meghuthang (3,900M) to Lampokhari Lake (4,300M)
Duration: 5 hrs
Today we meet the first of our glacial lakes on this trail and camp by its shore. But to get here is a long day of hard trekking. The tree line starts to fade out and we enter a more rustic terrain much different from what we left behind. You also start to feel the effects of altitude from today onwards. The landscape is more barren, desolate and colder and the terrain a bit more difficult to navigate with the introduction of snow, ice and boulders of varying sizes. You couldn’t ask for a better ending to the day than the campsite on the banks of Lampokhari Lake.
Lampokhari Lake (4,300M) to Gomathang (3,800M) via Danphebir La (4,530M)
Duration: 8 hrs
Today we hit the highest altitude on this trek and get the rewards we are due after this long and tiring journey –a chance to see the full face of the Kanchenjunga group of mountains up close and the many glacial lakes that greet us on the way. Since today is a long day and we also want to spend some time at the pass, we start really early. From Lampokhari Lake to Danphebir La is close to 2 kms of ascent. After spending some time here, we proceed further to get to another high-altitude pass – the Kag Bhir La, known as the Pass of the Crow. If you thought the view from Danphebir La was spectacular, you must brace yourself for what you witness at Kag Bhir La where both Kanchenjunga and Everest compete their hardest to get your attention.
After a full day of magnificence, we head down to Gomthang which is a long journey as well – 700 long meters of descent to rest our weary feet for the day.
Gomathang (3,800M) to Tyabla (3,700M)
Duration: 6 hrs
We continue to lose altitude today and reach our campsite at Tyabla by early evening.
Tyabla (3,700M) to Dzongri (4,300M)
Duration: 6 hrs
Today is a long day again. We trek on a series of ascents and descents to reach Dzongri where we connect to the popular trail of Goechala Pass.
Dzongri (4,300M) to Bakhim (2,850M)
Duration: 7 hrs
We lose a lot of altitude today to get to Bakhim. The massive descent today is an indicator we are coming close to the end of our trek.
Bakhim (2,850M) to Yuksom (1,780M)
Duration: 6 hrs
We will descend down to Yuksom where we end the trek. Today we stay the night in a guesthouse with a warm bed after all those long nights in our tents.
Depart from Yuksom
Distance: 150 kms
Duration: 6 hours
If you are travelling with us, we start early for our long drive back to NJP. Expect to reach New Jalpaiguri by late evening.
One should have at least 7-10 Himalayan trekking days in their kitty, Experience of trekking at altitudes higher than 3700 metres.
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For us, a successful summit is not about reaching the highest point of a mountain but about making it safely back to base.
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Ritvij Kumar 25 March 2017
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