A beautiful summer trail
Bhrigu lake 8th June--12th June 2018
The search
The decision to go on a trek was keeping me on toes for many days with an endless search on the internet and social groups. It was hard to decide which way to start with. Burning midnight fuel and scrolling various trekking sites not knowing exactly what to do but my determination was firm. I stated visiting hiking stores in my city and online too collecting bits and pieces. I was joined by few friends who were very much interested to come along but eventually, we were left with 4 in total but we knew one thing that we will join few others during the trek. Hopping here and there watching many videos we zeroed down to Bikat adventures who seemed professional to us in every way. Voila !! at last we found our leader ...
The confidence
It was after searching the internet that we got attracted towards Bikat adventure team was the way they conduct trekking expeditions with highly recommended certified professional team who were to guide us throughout the trail and whom we looked up to in every step we take, be it the routine morning yoga and exercise or taking care of our health and fitness or taking care with everything to make us proud. They consist of a trek leader, a trail guide, porters, cooks and helpers who are guiding us every time and making our stay comfortable. It was on my mind that this is a no place for luxary and we had to leave our comfortable lifestyle to enjoy laps of nature. And we did actually.....
The day of the start
We were very excited on the day when we left for manali. The journey was beautiful, watching rafters in the gushing waters and gliding driving the himalyan roads enjoying every bit of cool breeze but still the excitement and many question in our minds were still tingling on our nerves. But excited we were and a lot of treffic was there on the road and i was thinking that everybody might be going for trekking or a nature camp as ican see bags and rucksacks packed on the cars....so crazy people are for himalyan ventures....
We reached manali in the evening and after checking out in the hotel i tried to inquire about bhrigu lake from the desk but it seemed that the hotel staff was cool about it as if it was a routine for them.WE enjoyed that evening packing and unpacking our rucksacks many times ha ha.
The pickup
The next day we headed for manali bus stand around 2 pm and we were supposed to meet our trek leader Vikas srivatsa as we were told to do so. It was a nad traffic rush that day in manali and we walked up to the mall road fully geared as we were going for a combat operation.. It felt really happy inside the heart actually. Looking for the meeting point we saw fw people waiting there with their packs. Are they too going with us was one of the question in mind or may be they are other roup going on the other trail.. Few smilles welcomed us at the meeting point and a big Hi.. I am Vikas your trek leader .....we turned and look who is here !!!!. a slight releif of excitment...
WE were instructed by the trek leader to move to the taxi stand where we were supposed to align for proceeding towards a spot 20 km away GULABA . Oh bytheway i forgot to tell you that we were in total 11 members for the trek that evening and the two other members nikhil and godwin were to join us but their bus was running late so we had to move forward and not keeping the group in waiting for long. The drivers of tata sumo were friendly and kept chatting with us abot the vacation in manali and one of our superhero friend jaspreet gliided out of the sumo window to capture a selfie vieo in the backdrop ... Crazy stuff!!! we were scared but the driver and jaspreet were enjoying the filmi mood i suppose.... It was rainig intermitently helter skelter and we were worried about our stuff on the sumo roof so we had to take our bags down on our laps. We were pretty sure of constant rains on the trail and were preparing mentally for the wet atmosphere..
The first camp
It was exciting to know that we were approaching our first halt at the camp soon...
Our vehicles reached Gulaba chk point and we were to go further up till the 14th turn (there is 14 road turns from Gulaba chk point on the Rohtang road). A little scuffle at the Gulaba chk point to get clearance up to the 14th turn was a little nervous moment for us but the guide managed in a better way. As we reached the 14th turn and offloaded our packs on the road we could see some other groups too ready to venture on the same trail. We picked our backpacks and started to move upward towards our first camp. It was a short hike of 30 minutes to reach the base camp and to our surprise, all tents were set up before we reached and I could smell the aroma of fresh tea being prepared for us.
A short altitude hike routine
After the tea, we were instructed by our trek leader to align in a circle and to get a briefing about the trail.We did perform an introductory session where we were told to help others to do at least one exercise whichever we want them to do. It was an exciting session and then he instructed us to leave the backpacks in the tent and carry water bottles to climb up the mountain for an hour and a half a hike just to feel the altitude and a short exercise routine to be prepared for the morning trek. It was a good climb where we were going in the meadows with cedar and oak wood full trek. He even took us to see a glimpse of the Rohtang pass side which was a beautiful view... The ascent was good but the descent was very steep ...On our way, we saw many camps of other hikers set up above our camp but I am sure they would not have found time for acclimatization which we were on a superior note.
After the hike, we were eager to get down and take some rest and of course were waiting for the dinner... The dinner was simply veg but tasty food.
A sleepless night in the tent
Obviously don't get me wrong on this title. We are not actually used to sleep in the sleeping bag at our homes and remember we have left behind the luxurious amenities at home so be prepared for this. Sleeping in the sleeping bag is a difficult task for me at least and I saw others too feeling very uncomfortable with this shift... I have almost trapped in a sleeping bag this night and one thing I must tell you that we slept three in our tent but there was a catch. One of my cousin Rakesh was sleeping in the other tent but was feeling left out so he also jumped in out for a nap and we were expecting him anytime that night haha. so imagine we were for sleeping in a tent trapped in sleeping bags and legs all over... It was indeed a sleepless night and in a tent of 5ft by 5ft was indeed an experience.
Anyway, this has to be like this now for the next three days and we were mentally preparing for this......
Tip-- take your own sleeping bag and try sleeping in it at home for two to three days.
The day was excited with hike, fun, introduction, lovely food and we were calm quite at rest that night.
Day 2 to Rolla Khali camp
It was a fresh morning and I woke up at 4.50 am in excitement to get some fresh air. Did stretching exercise and was joined by my cousin Rakesh. Our trek leader asked us to get ready for the climb to camp 2 and we packed our bags. The tea was ready and so were we. After having a good breakfast we aligned together to perform exercise and stretching for half hour, checked our packs and put on the rain gear as it was drizzling a bit. We knew it is a long day and a 7 km approx climb to camp 2.
Water was an essential element during the hike to stay hydrated and mentally fit so that we must avoid the so-called altitude medicine and this is what our trek leader Vikas told us..Drink enough water during the hike and there will be no problem of mountain sickness. The logic seemed good enough to digest.
We started to climb up towards the point of the climb where we went yesterday and we could see the tip of the mountain and we thought that's it but No my friend there are mounts after mounts and it seemed endless journey...
We saw many campsites on the way and even a makeshift tentedDhaba where you can, of course, get tea, Maggie or water.
The climb
It was an endless climb but we were determined to reach in the best shortest time possible. This was the confidence of our trek leader in us and he told us that our team is doing good and are in the schedule but wait there is no need of hurry but to take short steps and breath through the nose only. A good hiker walks stops and then walks but seldom sits was the motto.
We reached another makeshift Dhaba point and it was 12 pm I suppose. We stopped here for a fresh cup of tea and to take some rest, wait for others to join in. The team spirit was high and destination determined
....
Camp Rolla Khali
The climb seemed endless after the second Dhaba and our trek leader cleverly always in Himachali style told us that we are very near just on the other side of that climb but the camp was not visible anywhere.It rained intermittently in between forcing us to play hide and seek with our rain gear. It was a bit rough stretch on the high ground and suddenly the meadow trees eloped as we reached around 10K ft altitude. The barometric air pressure was around 990 mmHg and was a little windy here.
Beautiful flowers
Oh my god at a point we reached an area full of yellow, red, pink-purple flowers and at one moment I thought is it the valley of flower? No, it was not the Uttrakhand style valley of flowers but not less either. We clicked so many pictures and the best part was that clouds suddenly appeared and disappeared making the flower show just like a dream destination filmi style.
The contrast of green meadows beneath, green grassland full of flowers and clouds hovering around was a perfect paisa Vasool for all of us that day.
The Rola Khali campsite
We were a little behind the team as we were enjoying the flowers on the way and it was raining too. One turn came and clouds hovered around us and we could see two ways popping up in the cloud. My god we are Lost was the question in my mind and I blew the whistle> Vishal shouted to the trek leader Vikas and he appeared from the clouds like a humble saviour... we joined him.
The wind was very curious to blow us away at the campsite and we were confined to our tents around 2 pm. The rain was high and so was the storm. It is a routine at Rola Khali campsite as the cap is located right in between the two mountain with a small river flowing nearby.
Our trek support team as clever enough to align on a high ground and not near the stream as it was noisy ..after having evening tea again we few fellows went for a short hike for one hour.
The campsite is beautiful with rocky mountains and snow around. It was a chilling evening that day and with lots of excitement and questions in mind about tomorrows, summit climb to Bhrigu lake...
The evening time
You know sometimes it is hard to pass the evening time as the sun sets early and it's going to be dark soon. We started with playing some games and I think dumb Sharad was the game but had to wind up as it was dinner time and was getting dark soon. People were relaxing inside the tents but it was not advised by the trek leader. The moment was to be enjoyed outdoors as much as possible just to acclimatize with the altitude oxygen exchange in the lungs. Although the support team was carrying enough medicine and small portable oxygen cylinder if the need arises but the whole idea was to support our health in a natural way. One good thing was that there were three doctors in the trek team but they also listened to the instructions of the team leader as expertise in mountains needs a different experience and altitude.
The summit day
Yeah, very nervous morning it was and hundreds of questions in mind. We were sceptical at first thought of walking and climbing in the snow with ropes and crampons but we were informed by our guide about not so difficult walk on ice. Again the rain played a spoilt spot on the previous day and I was sure of some slip on the way.
We thought of starting at 8 am as our leader wanted to get back by 3 pm and the concern was genuine. Mountain weather is very predictable on trek days and a good leader can smell the air. Mountain air flows from valley to mountainside in the morning and from mountainside towards valley side during the afternoon and it becomes very difficult to catch hold of the strong winds and especially accompanied by rain.
We knew that we have to return by 3 pm and descend via Pandu Ropa camp to Vashist tomorrow. We have seen few videos of Panduropa camps and it is the site where Pandavas visited and stayed during their Agyatwas...
It was disheartening to know through our guide that we have to stay put today night at Rola Khali camp only and descend via the same route as the area was very slippery near Pandu Ropa to erect tents. There was a chance of mules slipping in the area so we had no choice but to adjust accordingly.......huh
River crossing
The day of summit climb was scheduled at 8 am but our Indian people are always late in punctuality. I and Vikas started to walk towards the river stream and he told us the previous day that we have to cross the river barefoot as the water level will be high. Thank god the level was normal but the water was too chilled. I, Vikas and Rakesh Ji started crossing the river and we waited for other people to join us and helped them also to cross the stream...
Tip-- Always mark your trek pole ahead of your foootstep and watch for any loose stone in water . just avoid or put your foot strong.
Offering prayers before the summit
The climb was a little steep and full of mud and boulder. It was slipping or muddy foot and we continued the climb.W e have to cover a distance of another 8--9 km one way and start back before 1 pm was the target. A lot of other groups also joined us on the way so we had a good company ... we had daypacks with a packed sandwich, chocolate and juice. Of course, the water was an essential part of the climb... Hydration was on my mind and I took my hydration pack and used it sip by sip on the way. Actually, it is a useful pouch of about 1 ltr water and you don't have to gulp down every time with your bottle so sip by sip you can stay hydrated and fit...
We reached a point high from where we could see our camp also. we took few photos stops on the way and a little further we encountered snowline. A perfect photo stop and the contrasting backdrop of green grassland, blue sky and white snow... Everybody en route stopped for a briefing from the trek leader...
Our leader Vikas aligned us and instructed that who will be forward and who will be last in line. It was a wise idea because some people were slow marching so to keep up the pace it was done...
I sat on the snow breathing slowly offering prayers before the summit and a wise thing to do as you get encouragement and mental strength too.
Summit was up there I was thinking and what next was the question in my mind...
The rocks
Oh boy, It was so rocky terrain that I found the most difficult steps to climb. Walking on big boulder rocks I think is the hardest part of a trek I suppose at least for me... Yeah one thing was important and it was in my safety list from day one and that is to take care of my ankle. One wrong step and you could be in trouble for the whole team.
Being from Himachal Pradesh i was not very worried about AMS as I am habitual to it and I have done few visits to Leh valley few times...
We continued the rocky terrain and passing through another small stream of water but the small one. The challenge was on the other side of the climb... Mud and snow.
We were guided by our leader to watch the steps and the style of stepping to be done on the ice. It was a wise briefing as we had few members walking in the snow for the very first time.
Indeed the climb on the ice was steep but seeing the enthusiasm our leader was a bit relaxed.
AMS
Its a terrible state of health. Jaspreet shouted from a distance as I was on a high point helping others walk through tricky ice steps. He told me of a fellow not keeping well
Hey he is not well Jaspreet said and I waved a hand.
what happened I inquired with him. He is having nausea he told ..oh I see. I was a little afraid as I knew he is marching towards mountain sickness that as our trek leader Vikas was with him so no need to worry.we took some rest and clicked quick photos.
It washes high hill and after a treacherous icy stretch, it was a relief. I was a little worried to descent on the same path. The path was tricky...
rest a while
Everybody was tired as it was a steep hie right from the start of Rola Khali campsite and walking on the muddy rocky icy path was not comfortable but the enthusiasm was great. Our guide Rakesh was also an inspiration and that guy never stops. A Pakka Pahari though.
His task was to keep us moving forward without wasting time.
We were a little exhausted and we laid down for a while. Our group was coming up. The view was extraordinary as we were on the top.T he valley looked beautifully wet and calm. Clouds rising above everywhere. This was the perfect stop for a while.
the missing guy
It was disheartening to know that one of our fellow trekkers suffered actually a shot of AMS and had to descent to Rola Khali camp immediately. OUr trek leader responsibly took him back to the camp as he was vomiting and in a state of a delusionary walk. It was a dangerous moment. He did not inform the leader about having a headache the previous night and it was a fault.
Out of total 13 trekkers, one was missing and the dealing was not good. Some disappointment was in the mind and so sorry for him that the summit was around only 2 km from where he went back. I came to know later that evening that he did faint two-three times on the way. Kudos to Vikas who took him down on the muddy treacherous path and it was his experience and training in the rescue which helped him...
Our guide rakes were also disheartened about knowing the situation and now it was his responsibility to handle the pressure. We told him not to worry and we will help in getting down everybody. With a sigh of relief, we started marching towards the summit.
It was a normal walk now a less flat path not so tough and we enjoyed the sight of the summit...
Tip-- drink two to three ltr of water and you can avoid without taking any medication. You can have some chocolate or energy bar or a Glucovita tablet on the way. Staying hydrating is very important
Let your leader know your health position if you are sufferig from.. Listen to your trek leader and follow instruction.. Remember he is there to help..
Rakesh our trail guide in the pic below
the summit-the lake
We were up here .wow what a feeling and what a view. The holy lake as locals calls it was surrounded by mountain and ice. A 36o degree pano view and we are at the highest point 140093 ft above sea level and I remembered my city sea level was just 63 I think. What a feeling and what a trek it has been.
We were happy and sad also for our fellow who did not make it.
Rakesh shouted don't take your shoe near the lake as it is holy. We respected the call. we remained on the high ground for some time clicking pictures. Some went down to the lake for a photo stop and just to get their feet wet.
A small shrine is also built there by local people who come here every year to perform pooja on their local gods call as they say.
We spent around an hour there.
There was a black dog resting on the rock and I recognized him as he was roaming around the camp. My god what is he doing here or I can think of a gods security sent here just to guide us in a responsible way.
I gave him a sandwich to eat, he nodded and went for a nap.
many groups reached the lake and everybody was busy doing photo shoots .. Enjoying nature with the naked eye is a different perspective I suppose.
Rakesh told everybody to leave the place and start descent as the weather may get worst around 1 pm.
He was correct the clouds started hovering around in a pattern.
We could feel the raindrops sometimes and one thing was sure that it will not be going to be easy to get down as Vikas was also missing. One wrong foot and you can slide deep down the hill.
We started back as instructed...
Me and you group at Bhrigu lake summit
The descent to camp 2
We enjoyed every moment doing summit Bhrigu lake and took fond memories with us. The descent was a little tricky and we thought to get down before it starts to rain or a storm.
It was a task as few fellows moved slowly and Rakesh had a hard time getting their footsteps right jumping up and down on the snow. It was really a difficult path down full of slippery mud.
We were told to step a technique while climbing up and down and everybody followed it.
Vikas was not with us and it was a concern too. One disappointment was also in mind for not descent via Pandu Ropa but after completing summit we were happy.
Now we were getting tired of getting back to camp.
Here he is ..Rakesh pointed out ..Vikas was on the way up running quickly. is he? Yes, he must be Vikas only with the speed he only can be. Oh good, but we tried to wave him many times not to come up further as we are on the way. It was far so he hardly noticed and kept climbing.
We had one experienced fellow Rakesh Verma Ji who did a very long Kailash Mansarovar trek a few months back and he was experienced. he told Rakesh that he will be at the last just to take care from the last row. he was generous enough to volunteer. Rakesh was a bit relaxed knowing it.
we were too...
Hello, all said Vikas he is ok in the camp. What a relief on hearing this..we were happy.
we kept on the descent but after some time it started to a hailstorm. It was a happy moment as it looked that God is giving us blessings to our pure heart and dedication.
If it rained was a worry but we never stopped on the way back ...
It was a relief and a moment of accomplishment after reaching back to camp.
Everybody was tired today a good cup of tea and pakoras were to be enjoyed with rain, windy weather confining to our dining tents...
The summit evening
We were tired and we knew that retiring in tents early is not a good idea, so we thought of playing outdoor games. the rain was settled by then and the weather was super cold chilly. Everybody was chilled with the gushing cold wind. It was the only way to keep us a little engaged.
A game called mafia was called and everybody enjoyed. Actually, these types of the game should be encouraged in the camps so that everybody gets a chance to know each other.
That evening was full of laughter and mood...
It was so cold that we have to get back to tents again...The chitchat, songs session and laughter roared the tents till late and slept with ta ired note....
the last day to camp 1
It was a sleepless night as our tents were installed on a slope so whole night our sleeping bags were sliding down haha. It was a relief also as our body got some rest to go back down. We were asked to pack our luggage and an option to offload rucksacks on mules. I opted for it as going down with 10 kg backpack was a difficult job in a way so I had my daypack loaded with a water bottle and some snack. Of course, sunscreen was an important part of my daypack. We had a nice Poha and oat breakfast and started off.
Descending down was not much of a trouble but it had some steep sections where your body wants to run. We reached the Dhaba point and had some rest whereas my cousin Rakesh was busy clicking photographs of Shepard and chatting with the leader. It was interesting to know their storey and they are blessed to live in the lap of nature.
A quick stop at the Dhaba was energetic. We sat there for some time enjoyed the view and started off again. This time I used the method of heal to toe this time to get down with my body flowing with it and voila I was the first person to reach the camp 1 at Gulaba. On seeing the campsite I felt that my trek tour has completed satisfactorily. I rested there for a half hour and waited for everybody to come down...
I could see some tired faces approaching me ......
Last day meal
After boarding the vehicle from Gulaba we were heading towards Manali mall road to have a great lunch and the best part of the trek group is that we along with our leader Vikas had a fantabulous lunch together at Manali and shared some moments chatting about memories of trek expedition. People got busy taking their tickets for Volvo and inquiring about the bus timings. It was sure nobody wanted to leave at that moment and really everybody has made a special bond with each other. Everybody was talking of planning another trek together. Memories do fade away after some time and let me see who calls first for another trek when and where.
Till then goodbye and happy days ahead!!!!!
dr Manav Verma
Summit group photograph
We had to click this summit group photograph with our guide Rakesh representing Bikat adventure but without Vikas our trek leader. Vikas job was more important than this photograph at the time when our fellow was sick. We will miss you Vikas in this group pic and we all are looking forward to trek with you again soon !!!