Do you all remember the meadows from Teletubbies? Or even the classic Microsoft Windows wallpaper? That's exactly what Tosa Maidan looks like! Smoothened green meadows as far as the eye can see. What's even better, that's not all it offers. Our newest discovery in the Gulmarg region of Kashmir, the Tosa Maidan and Greater Lakes trek treats you with stunning vistas of meadows, coniferous forests and glacial lakes over a span of 7 days. The trek transports you into a part of Kashmir that remains untouched by trekkers.
Although dominated by meadows, one can notice the gradual change in the landscape, the decline in treeline as we climb higher up, remnants of snow on mountains far away and the glacial lakes that surprise us towards the end.
Tosa Maidan and Greater Lakes is for those of you who love being among nature and enjoy the vibrant colours of green and blue. The stark contrast between the green meadows below you and the bright blue sky above uplifts your spirits and leaves you yearning for more.
While the trek has so very much to offer, we present to you few of the highlights from the trail that make it a journey into the wilderness and beyond.
Day 1: The Drive to Drung
Although a short one compared to most basecamp drives, the drive from Srinagar to Drung is a cultural treat. Taking you through the bylanes of Srinagar and the markets of smaller towns, the drive gives you an insight into the daily lives of the people of Kashmir. One can see an array of things being sold, from the famous pashmina fabrics to different chops of meat. These markets are full of life and even more so if you're travelling through around festival time. While most treks are all about straying away from the hustle and bustle of towns and cities, this one gives you a hint of Kashmiri culture before taking you away into uncharted territories.
The markets and towns slowly disappear to make way for the mountains and the feeling of a gentle breeze brushing your skin is your cue to know that you have arrived in Himalayas.
At the end of the drive is our campsite, located a little above the famous Drung Waterfall which is thronged by tourists during winters. Pitched next to the ruins of a supposed temple, the campsite looks into the valley, surrounded by mountains on all sides.
Day 2: What lies at the end of the dense forests?
As we start off our first day of trekking, the trail ascends into patches of coniferous trees and then grows into a thick forest. On a clear day, entering the forest comes as a relief from the harsh sun. You can smell the dampness from the trees, which gives you the feeling of being surrounded by nature. When you look up, you see the deep blue sky peeping at you through the gaps in the trees. At the end of the dense forest lie the meadows of Kashmir- the sight that everyone eagerly waits for! The trail also becomes easier from where we hit the meadows with gentle ups and downs. A hop, skip and a jump from there, we arrive at one of the most striking campsites. Nestled amongst endless meadows and patches of coniferous trees, the campsite is the perfect spot to relax after a long day of trekking and watch the sun set over the mountains.
Day 3: Of Endless Meadows and Frolicking Sheep
If the meadows on day 2 surprised you, they take your breath away on day 3 as we stroll through them to make our way to Pehjan. Often preoccupied with the grandiose of things, we forget to notice the smaller details that add so much beauty to the landscape. While Kashmir is famous for its snowcapped mountains, the meadows add so much extravagance and colour to the views in front of us. The colour of lush green sprawling endlessly can leave you awestruck.
A little before Pehjan, we are welcomed by hundreds of sheep which have been brought out to graze by the shepherd. It is truly delightful to see so many of them running around like kids who have been let free after a long day of school. As we sit there to spend some time watching them, we notice how far we've come from civilization into a place that remains raw and untouched.
Day 4: 50 Shades of Pink
As we move from Pehjan towards Tosa Maidan, we see an increasing number of bright pink dots on the meadows below. In different shades of pink are the flowers that bloom in the higher altitudes. When we look forward, we notice that they have covered the green surface below to form a flower bed that adds an uplifting colour to the scenery. These flowers make the perfect subjects for macro photography, providing a vibrant contrast to the green background.
Tosa Maidan is known to be one of the biggest meadows in Kashmir and is frequented by locals to enjoy a picnic amongst the sea of meadows that it offers. The easy descent into Tosa Maidan is loved by trekkers for it gives them the opportunity to focus on the landscape and the life around them. This however does not prepare them for the beauty of the campsite that they are to arrive at. Pitched next to a crystal clear gushing stream, the campsite offers views of the vast Tosa Maidan and the mountains that we left behind. One simply cannot get enough of the folds and bends of these meadows in the distance as we spend our evening absorbing the beauty in the little time we have.
Day 5: Above and Beyond into Noonwan
Ascending from our campsite, we get aerial views of Tosa Maidan and you still cannot see the end of it! We slowly watch it expand in size until it's no more visible and move on to our destination for the day. As we slowly make our way towards Noonwan, there is a stark change in the landscape with grey mountains covered in scree taking over from the soft green mountains. The trek also gets challenging here with some boulder crossings which add a bit of adventure to the trail and give you the much needed adrenaline rush.
Noonwan is located between boulders and grey mountains, right next to a glassy lake which is the extension of the Godsar Lake that lies ahead. This campsite offers the best sunsets with dramatic skies and changing colours that make it worth spending two nights there.
Day 6: The Much Awaited Glacial Lakes
With the meadows and flower beds keeping you spellbound, the glacial lakes pop up as a surprise on Day 6! We make our way through boulders and some difficult terrain to witness some of the most beautiful lakes of Kashmir, also known as the Greater Lakes. And guess what! One of them is in the shape of a heart. Our trek leaders refer to it as Dilsar for this reason, although locally the lake is called Bhansar.
On a clear day, the reflection of the sky in the lakes is so clear, it makes for the perfect landscape shot. All the four lakes, Godsar, Neelsar, Bhansar and Dhamamsar are located in a circuit of sorts, starting at one end of the campsite and ending on the other. As we are not moving camps, the trek is easier on the shoulders but will test your balance during the boulder crossing. Trekkers enjoy this day the most as they finally witness the lakes that they've been waiting for along with some fun filled adventure on the way!
Day 7: The Easy Peasy Descent to Tosa Maidan
The way back to Tosa Maidan from Noonwan is one of the easiest trails on the entire trek which makes it oh! so enjoyable. The descent is long but gradual making it a stroll in the park compared to the previous few days of trekking. Trekkers sing songs and make conversations about their experiences during this last leg with lots of excitement and a sense of accomplishment.
At the end of this easy trail lies a short but steep climb to the pick-up point. Test yourselves with the skills you've acquired over the past few days and feel free to go beast mode and climb on all fours! When you make it to the top, treat yourself to some hot tea and one of the best bread-omelettes you will find.
The way back to Srinagar is a 3 hour ride with our fellow trekkers. We exchange numbers, photographs and Instagram IDs before we part ways with lots of memories and an adventure to remember for a lifetime!
This is not even all! The above are just a few examples of the things that stand out during the trek. It is best when experienced first-hand. We recommend you pick Tosa Maidan and Greater Lakes as your next adventure to get a full blown experience of the interiors of the Kashmir Valley!
